The Kootenai Community: Shane McCoy

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“There is a feeling that time has stopped and the past and the present live together, here in the “Last Best Place.””

I first came to Montana more than 12 years ago with my husband Louis, when we were just dating. Louis’ mother is from Butte, Montana and for most of her life had property along the shoreline of Swan—first the river, then the lake. It was on our annual Summer trips to Sunburst Drive that I fell in love with this state and in particular the charming frontier town of Bigfork. A close-knit community, Bigfork comes alive in the high season with performances at the Bigfork Playhouse, outdoor concerts with the Glacier Symphony, Farmer’s Markets and adventurers seeking thrills on Flathead Lake and within Glacier National Park.

On the shores of Swan Lake, where the lake meets the river, the Kootenai Lodge is Old Montana. Louis and I visited the development a decade ago when it first launched, we toured the thoughtfully restored log cabins and several of the newer homes. Acres of rolling lawns, bordered by split rail fencing, sunshine glistened off of the lake, the river came alive with fish jumping and ducks swimming. A pontoon boat docked, kayaks, and SUP boards stacked—this magical property promised an active lifestyle set in impossible beauty. The Lodge at Kootenai, the centerpiece of the property, is a national treasure—built in the 1900’s by the architect of the Lake McDonald Lodge in Glacier National Park. As the private summer camp of the Copper Kings, the grand Lodge hosted luminaries of the day from J.D. Rockefeller to Charlie Russell to Charles Lindbergh. We drove by the Kootenai several times a day and I would remember our tour and think of what it would be like to spend time there.

Louis and I now have two boys, ages 7 and 9. They have spent every summer since they were born adventuring along these shores—hiking in Glacier, fishing with their grandfather and Dad, kayaking to little islands in the middle of Swan and floating the river. We would return home to share pictures of our adventures with my parents. Last summer, my Mom and Dad made their first trip to Montana and fell in love with these magical shores. Peter and Kacey McCoy are the new stewards of Kootenai’s historic Evans Cabin, built in 1915 for Lewis Orvis Evans, general counsel of the Anaconda Copper Mining Company. Through summer, fall and winter, this legacy log cabin has become the gathering spot for our friends and family, and memories are in the making.

It is not just the beauty of these luxurious homes or watching the glacier-fed lake flow into the river, or the abundance of nature frolicking on its’ banks, or the light, ever-changing through the seasons, but it’s witnessing everything at once—there is a feeling that time has stopped and the past and the present live together, here in the “Last Best Place.”

The Kootenai Community: Kitty Keresey Ault

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My family history at the Kootenai

Swan Lake - 1960s

My immediate family visited and stayed at Kootenai in the early 1960’s; I was 5 years old when we started visiting and continued to do so until I was 13. When it was sold in 1968 my parents bought a cabin at Yellow Bay on Flathead Lake and we vacationed there until 1978 when dad sold it and bought land at Woods Bay in hopes of building a place there. My father was Tom Keresey - son of Franny Kelley Keresey Wood (4th Con F. Kelley daughter) and my mother was Anne Sory Keresey. We lived on Long Island in New York until my family moved to Palm Bach FL in 1975. Both of my parents have passed now but they loved Montana and our family built a life foundation that included Montana, Swan Lake, Flathead, the Swan and Mission ranges, Glacier, The Bob Marshal Wilderness and more. My parents loved to fish the rivers and lakes, hike and ride into wilderness areas and remote places. We were lucky to grow up with this amazing experience of being a part of open space, wild places, and one of the most majestic environments in the continental United States.

“The Kootenai does not really compare to anywhere else I have ever been.”

Kootenai - as we called it, Swan Lake - was very rustic and remote when we used to vacation there. My grandmother, however, accustomed to a finer life always arranged for housekeepers, cooks, and grounds people to be on staff during our 3-4 week stay each summer. Meals were at a certain time in the dining cabin. Dinner was a dress up affair (smoked dresses and patent leather shoes) and the rest of the time was low key. In the early 60’s it was me, who is the eldest, Tess my sister (2 years younger) and my brother Tommy who was 2 years younger than Tess. We usually had an au pair or nanny to watch over us. The old blue baby stroller and baby carriage were used for my brother in those days. We used to take walks down the long empty road leading up to the gates (then there were no homes and the land was very wild), the local dump was a ways down the road and black bears used to be there foraging in the garbage. Of course, we would go to watch!! Lucky we never had an incident! The bears used to come into the Kootenai camp often as well. They would be sitting on the interior patio many a morning when we woke up. We think they liked coming to the fountain to drink. It was dangerous but we really weren’t afraid, and the bears ran off quickly once they heard our voices.

We used to fish at the end of the dock and would often go fishing down at the end of Johnsons Creek. Before we went fishing, we had to catch our own grasshoppers in the field in front of the Barn which used to be located near the Heritage Cabins.

A few fun facts & highlights from over the years:

  • The yoga studio, that has now been renovated incredibly well, used to be the pump house when I was a little girl.

  • The cellar that held liquor during the prohibition years was under a water wishing well and we were not to go near it!

  • The merry go round push toy set was there and we did play on that. We also had a Pony named John and a donkey that we rode. He pulled a carriage that is now on the porch of the lodge.

  • The Island that is up the lake a bit was called the Isle of Folly. It was my great grandmother’s garden place - all native plants and flowers grew there. It was very overgrown and wild when I was a child and a little bit scary!

  • The mosquitos were fierce at Swan Lake! We wore 6-12 repellent daily and George Stube, the caretaker, would blast DDT repellent with a fumigator. It was terrible and smelled bad! Mom used to keep us in during those sessions!

  • The highlight of the summer was going to the Bigfork Summer Playhouse and seeing summer stock shows, then we would recreate it in the main lodge before dinner. There was always lots and lots of singing!

  • I learned how to water ski, fish, float and more on Swan Lake.

  • There was only one telephone located at the Kootenai when I was a little girl. It was in the Telegraph cabin which used to be Con Kelley’s office.

In general, our time at Swan Lake was always memorable and remains special and dear to my heart. We used to take the train out from New York, stop in Chicago and go to the zoo with my grandmother. We also stopped in Minneapolis to see Wa Wee. She was the Native American/African American nurse for my grandmother and her children, my dad Tom and his sister Tess. Wa Wee would come on the train to say hi to us. We were her family and it meant so much for her to see all of us going to Montana each summer.

Photos from my recent visit back to the Kootenai with my youngest sister Caroline

Seriously, the Kootenai does not really compare to anywhere else I have ever been. Flathead Lake Lodge may be the closest similarity, but when I was a child the remoteness and rustic feel of the Kootenai was like nowhere else.

Caroline and my recent visit and tour was lovely. The restoration and renovations of the buildings are incredible. I look forward to seeing the Keresey and Florman cabins once completed. I was glad to see the Telegraph still the way it was but am also excited to see it converted into a home.

We cannot wait to visit again soon!




The Kootenai Community: Carie Forrester

Carie enjoying an afternoon out on Swan Lake during her visit to the Kootenai.

Carie enjoying an afternoon out on Swan Lake during her visit to the Kootenai.

My father-in-law was an adventurer and lifetime seeker of remarkable experiences around the globe. He had this rating system for places: very nice, lovely and special. Special always meant the place was highly memorable, unique, and something that could only be experienced. There is no doubt he would have described the Kootenai Estates as “very special indeed.”

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“This is what happens here at The Kootenai. Your cares fall away and your spirit renews.”

As I walk across the sweeping lawns and feel the cool green grass under my feet, I find myself in front of the 100-year-old lodge. I stand in awe as I can almost hear the whispers of the ghosts of frontiersmen and prospectors. I look around and imagine what it was like here in the early 1900s, the 1940s, 60s… I think about the people who came here before jets landed in Kalispell. What did they know? What did they hear to make the trek to this spot along the Swan River? Now, I’m here, standing under these enormous evergreens that I realize are older than the lodge. One step inside the building and I take it all in… the original copper bar (100 % copper!), and the enormous stone fireplace. I realize how much the owners have cherished the history here, preserved it and, also, updated the property with every guest’s comfort and indulgence in mind.

Later in the day, the low-angled sunlight of northern Montana casts beautiful colors in the clouds as my boys fish the clear waters of Swan Lake. I again imagine the number of children who have spent their summers here and made lifelong memories, and now we are doing the same. Often, historical locations make one feel like they are merely an observer of the past. Here, one feels a part of it.

As we make s’mores and gaze at the stars, I recall one of my favorite quotes on nature by John Muir:

“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like the leaves of Autumn.”

This is what happens here at The Kootenai. Your cares fall away and your spirit renews. It is the best gift I can ever give my children and grandchildren–to know they can come here when life becomes too hectic. There is a special community growing here and it is a privilege to be a part of it, to be of a part of its history and its future.


Carie Forrester

Atma Adventures

Founder and Fellow Traveler




The Kootenai Community: Amanda M

Amanda and her mum Sherry celebrating July 4 in the Lodge with Kootenai family and friends.

Amanda and her mum Sherry celebrating July 4 in the Lodge with Kootenai family and friends.

“Kootenai has been compared to Camelot, and in this crazy COVID filled world we’re living in, it’s truly a magical escape from the rest of the world. ”
— Amanda M

My family has been visiting Montana ever since I was a toddler, and it has always held a special place in my heart. From the breathtaking views of the lakes to the unforgettable hikes, this truly is ‘The last best place’.

We’ve had our home in Kootenai for 7 years now, and we could not be happier living here. As a resident of Silicon Valley, I live for any opportunity to spend time on the picturesque Swan Lake. I could spend hours in front of the ‘Montana TV’ aka our fire pit overlooking the lake. It’s a real blessing to get to disconnect from my tech filled life and relax with my family over home cooked meals, late night s’mores, and huckleberry pies. Just down the road from Kootenai is one of my favorite hikes of all time, Holland Lake. It’s a very family friendly hike, with a view at the end that will take your breath away. Once you’ve finished your hike, be sure to grab lunch at the quaint Holland Lake Lodge, on the shore of the lake.

The only thing more beautiful than the scenery in a Montana summer, is the snow globe experience that you’ll get to have here in the winter. I’ve spent the last 4 Christmas' up here, and I couldn’t imaging spending them any other way.  As you watch the trees and fields become coated in blankets of snow, the activities up here become even more plentiful. I’ve spent countless hours skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, and ice skating. On lazy winter days, taking in the frozen lake and snow covered trees while curled up around the fire is one of the most peaceful thing to do.  No matter when you’re here, there will always be fun times in store. 

Spending the incredibly long summer days (and magical winter ones as well) in Montana is one of the most treasured experiences on the planet. From swimming, to wake surfing, to skiing, to fishing, it’s impossible to be bored up here.  Sharing this property with the beautiful deer, turkeys and eagles that flock to this land is an incredible sight to see. Kootenai has been compared to Camelot, and in this crazy COVID filled world we’re living in, it’s truly a magical escape from the rest of the world. 

The Kootenai Community: Laura O

One of our beautiful local neighbors Laura O enjoying a bike ride through the Kootenai.

One of our beautiful local neighbors Laura O enjoying a bike ride through the Kootenai.

“We treasure this amazing property – an oasis filled with nature, beauty and peacefulness. ”

My first visit to Kootenai Lodge Estates is a memory I’ll never forget. When I first arrived in Montana, I was mesmerized by its fairytale setting. One particular morning, the apple trees were heavy with blossoms, the sun lit up the manicured lawn and fawns were frolicking across it. It was unreal to me that this heaven on earth was right outside the door.

One of my favorite things about Kootenai Lodge Estates is its rich history. The local Native Americans used to live on this lush land along the banks of the Swan River. They chose this place not only because it is rich with fish and game, but the river runs north here, a rare thing, I’ve been told, and because of that, they believed the water had special healing powers. It does. A swim in this pristine lake fed from the snow on the Swan mountain range leaves you feeling amazingly invigorated.

It is fascinating to learn how the Copper Kings (Cornelius Kelley and Orvis Evans) discovered the property and developed it as their summer home and hunting lodge. They brought their families and friends (Montana western artist, Charlie Russell; Charles Lindberg; Will Rogers, and others) here to hunt, fish, swim, boat, and enjoy music-filled dinner parties held in the Lodge on summer nights. That tradition still lives on here. My family and I have spent many days and nights dancing in the lodge dining room, enjoying cozy fireside chats and lively catered dinners and cookouts.

If you can tear yourself away from the beautiful surroundings of the Kootenai, a hike up Mount Aeneas, in the nearby Jewel Basin, is a breathtaking adventure. Once you reach the peak, you may be greeted by mountain goats as they pass you on the trail. Also, a float down the Swan River is always a fun, refreshing way to spend a summer afternoon.

Above all, what we appreciate most is the friendships we have made with the homeowners here. We look forward to growing these bonds even stronger in the years to come in one of the most stunning places on earth.

Laura xo

The Kootenai Community: Ed & Marcia

Marcia & Ed celebrating their 42nd wedding anniversary in February 2020.

Marcia & Ed celebrating their 42nd wedding anniversary in February 2020.

The Kootenai is always changing; with every season it brings new life and serenity.

Our names are Ed and Marcia and we would like to share our working experience at the historic Kootenai Lodge Estates. Hands down it is our favorite, and the saying “last best place” is the Kootenai! The property here at Kootenai Estates truly is unique. Working here for over 15 years, we have been privileged to experience some of the most picturesque scenes Mother Nature could offer.

Located on the mouth of Swan Lake, our views from the preserved historic lodge and homes cuddled up next to the water, makes it hard to keep focused on work. Any stress is quickly taken away with a look out one of the many lodges’ windows or sitting on the porch to soak up the calmness of the rivers slow and gentle flow. There is wildlife at every turn it seems; fish jumping, beavers swimming, ducks, geese and their babies, eagles soaring above, deer, turkeys, an occasional fox, and yes, even a bear has rambled through the property to cross the river. The water is so inviting. When time permits, launching our kayaks and paddling up the lake or down the river to take in more of nature’s beauty is indeed peaceful and relaxing.

As native Montanans, keeping the history of the Kootenai alive is important to us. From the first native Indian tribes in the Swan Valley, to the “Copper Kings”, and visitation by the famous artist Charles Marion Russell, the Kootenai history is rich and intriguing. We have been blessed while working here to meet and become friends with homeowners that have made us feel like family. 

Come visit and see for yourself - you will not be sorry you did.